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Natural Liquid Soap Paste

Natural liquid soap paste is awesome for transportability.  With natural liquid soap paste, there is no need to ship water and the end user can quickly reconstitute the soap paste into natural liquid soap simply by adding distilled water in the proper amounts.  For example a 15 pound box of natural liquid soap paste makes about 5 gallons of product.  A 15 pound box can also make about 3 gallons of a thicker body wash.  For reselling purposes, the street value is just above $200 in large amounts and more if reselling in small quantities such as 8 or 16 ounce.  For more on how to reconstitute click here.  Natural liquid soap paste also allows for global accessibility to natural soap.  For example it would cost around $50 to send 7 kilos of the soap that would result in 30 liters when reconstituted, or 20 liters of a thicker body wash. 


Natural liquid soap paste is versatile and utilitarian in nature.  With natural liquid soap paste, you can create a thin liquid soap or a thick body wash.  You can also create variations if you like, such as lemon, lavender and the like.    See below for how to make scented variations.  It may be easier to just buy it scented.[1]  Formulators notes regarding dilution.[2] Equipment that would be helpful.[3]


[1] Adding fragrance or essential oils to soap paste is best done by heating the paste back up in a crock pot and adding the essential oils keeping the heat and stirring with a little water dilution, enough to make it "stirrable."  If you just try to stir the fragrance in without heat or Poly 20, it will mottle and just sit on the top of the water based solution.  Otherwise, Polysorbate 20 [tween] may be the only other option so the essential oils do not float to the top of your finished liquid  soap.  Polysorbate 20 is added to the scent first 1:1 ratio and mixed well before being dropped into the liquid soap.  Sometimes you need more poly and can go 2:1 or even 4:1.  Because heat can also dissipate some essential oil scent-you may find Poly20 the best option-amending an already diluted liquid soap.  This also allows you to pick any essential on an "as need" basis and not be locked into one scent.

[2] Formulators notes:  It is always best to dilute with distilled water where possible, but a proper water filter can be ok.  It is not good to dilute with tap water because there are so many variables as far as mineral content and other components of tap water.   A PUR water filter can be used with much success because PUR does remove all minerals and impurities, unlike BRITA.   

 [3] Equipment that would be helpful include the largest crock pot you can find, which would take most of the work out of the dilution and could be used as a dedicated vessel, meaning no real need to clean it.  A cake mixer would also help mix the diluted soap with the hot water.  I always used a stick blender, but these days I use both.  Keep any mixer on the lowest setting or you will get the fluff and bubbles.


Always work in small amounts until you are sure how your water source is working. If you are adding scent--you can better work out scent loads and/or potential appearance issues.  Keep your own notes because water sources affect dilutions immeasurably.  In one state, with a high sodium or calcium content in local water supplies-my dilutions could go further than another state. Meaning, if you move water sources, you may have to re-adjust all of your final determinations.  Even moving from one city to another can vastly affect your finished product.  I always know my water sources before I begin a soap project.  Again, I try to just use distilled which is far more predictable, but even then I get variances from time to time.  Possible even weather can play a role-a non-humid area to a humid area.

Basic Liquid Soap Dilution

I find in general a  gallon of soap paste (say 9 pounds) will make 5 gallons of a liquid soap.  This means you are adding 4 gallons of water or ideally distilled water.  Thin soap is better soap, as it produces more bubbles.  Thin soap is best because there is far less surface tension is one reason why. If you feel you still made it too thin and want to thicken it up a tad-you can try what I call a "saline solution cocktail" (below) to thicken it.

Thick Body Wash Dilution

Because everyone has been taught to think thicker is better (myself included) you can dilute soap paste 1 part paste to 2 parts water and have a thick product.  I can usually achieve a thick product at 1 part past to 3 parts water.  If for some reason I made it too thin I can usually correct or thicken with the saline solution cocktail below. 

Saline Solution Cocktail

Using sea salt, I make a 1:4 salt saline solution.  I microwave 1 part sea salt in 4 parts distilled water until dissolved.  I have used table salt, although that can present variables of other minerals also.  Since you are no longer saponifying it (dealing with the lye part) -it should not be detrimental if you use sea salt or table salt. 

To thicken my liquid soap I would slowly add the saline cocktail with a stick blender for finite reaction.    If it "takes" you are going to see it "take" relatively fast-in the area you are pouring it. If it does not take, and sometimes it will not if you simply have too thin a soap--you should know it just as fast.  My experience says do not keep adding saline if it is obvious it is not taking.  Try it in a small amount if you want to be sure first. 


You may be able to add Mica's,  you would want to coat then with vegetable glycerin first-like 1:5. Five parts being glycerin. Vegetable glycerin is a suspension agent used in many body care products to suspend color.  It is also facilitated for the same reason in cake decorating.  I do not bother with micas, but that is how I would do it, if I did do it.